Behind The Design: Itajime

Feb 13, 2026Michelle Hanabusa

itajime (it-tah-JEE-may) — a form of shibori dye pattern technique that involves clamping folded cloth between wood forms to create a pattern.

Itajime Specialist | Mari Hanabusa | 01.2026

1. Sandwich + Clamp The Fabric 

Fold/stack the shirt (or fabric), place it between two wooden blocks, then tie tightly with rope/string to create strong pressure points.

2. Tighten for Crisp Whites

The tighter the tie, the less dye can seep in—so the areas under the blocks stay*white/undyed. Trim or secure any excess string.

3. Soda Ash Soak (Prep)

Soak the tied bundle in soda ash water for ~15 minutes. This helps the fabric absorb dye and enhances color.

4. Mix Dye Bat

Prepare a pot of water + dye powder + salt (for cotton). If dyeing silk, use vinegar instead.

5. Dye + Heat Set

Squeeze out excess soda ash solution, place the bundle into the hot/boiling dye bath, cover with a lid, and boil ~30 minutes, turning occasionally for even color.

6. Remove + Unwrap at the Sink

Take the shirt out and remove the string and wood blocks in a sink to avoid dye dripping everywhere.

7. Rinse until Water runs mostly Clear

Rinse under running water, squeezing out excess dye. Then massage/rinse in a bowl of clean water, wring out, and repeat until the water is relatively clear.

8. Fixative Soak

Soak in water with a small amount of fixative to help the color stay.

9. Wash + Dry

Wash and dry the shirt to finalize the piece.